Striped California Kingsnake

Kingsnakes differ in both pattern and color, but they typically have distinct bands or stripes. Color variations encompass black with creamy yellow bands, brown with yellow bands, black with a white vertical stripe, brown with a yellow stripe, and speckled designs.

A kingsnake can hiss, move its tail, or attack if threatened. It can also coil into a ball with its head in the middle and generate a foul stench from its vent (the orifice via which it expels feces). They are not venomous or violent, but they may bite if startled or threatened.

Kingsnakes consume other snakes, including rattlesnakes, slaying them by biting near the head as well as choking.

California Kingsnake

The California kingsnake (Lampropeltis californiae) is a nonvenomous colubrid snake native to the western United States and the northern region of Mexico. It can be found in a range of environments. Due to its simplicity of care and a vast range of colors, the California kingsnake has become one of the most desirable snakes in a cage.

California kingsnakes are normally 2.5-3.5 feet (76-107cm) in length but can grow bigger. On Isla Ángel de la Guarda, Baja California, Mexico, some have grown to 78 inches (2 m). In the wild, there are many different color variants; they are typically found with contrasting dark and light bands varying in hue from black and white to brown and cream. Certain populations can show longitudinal stripes rather than bands. Usually, California kingsnakes live to be between ten and fifteen years old, sometimes exceeding twenty if adequately cared for in confinement.

California kingsnakes rely on stripes and bands to disguise their bodies and conceal them from predators. Their predators comprise hawks, eagles, coyotes, skunks, foxes, bobcats, and other kingsnakes.

California Kingsnake Appearance

Owing to its vast range and prevalence as a pet, the California Kingsnake exhibits a wide range of color variations and patterns. The usual California Kingsnake belongs to the "tricolor" snake group.

Several California Kings are banded in dark brown and white/yellow. Some of the most prevalent pattern phases are discussed below.

1. Striped

This pattern is typically identified by a white or light yellow stripe on the snake's back.

2. Un-banded

This phase is distinguished by a black belly and lateral striping.

3. Dark Banded

This kind of banded California Kingsnake has a black underbelly and extensive banding.

4. Desert

The desert phase is distinguished by strongly contrasted bands of rich black and shining white.

5. Coastal

The coastal phase is distinct from the desert phase in that it features reddish-brown streaks that alternate with white or yellow.

Apart from the above, there are many other pattern phases; breeders have successfully generated other California Kingsnake hues, such as albinos, banana (high yellow), speckled, lavender, and others.

Natural Kingdom of California Kingsnake

California kingsnakes' native habitat is confined to the western United States. They are found across California, southwestern Oregon, southern Nevada and Utah, and the majority of Arizona. They can frequently be discovered beneath leaf litter, man-made constructions, and other waste.

These diurnal constrictors chase aggressively and skillfully. Their diet consists of rodents, reptiles, birds, and bird eggs. Kingsnakes are additionally ophiophagous, meaning they can and will consume other snakes. In reality, this nonvenomous snake can kill and eat very venomous snakes.

California kingsnakes, in their natural environment, are typically banded or striped, with hues ranging from black to brown and white or yellow patterns.

In banded creatures, the light hue creates rings around the snake's body. Bands are typically wider near the snake's belly. Striped animals have a light-color dorsal stripe that runs longitudinally. Albino and lavender variants have also been discovered to exist naturally in specific areas.

Overall, these species inhabit a wide range of environments, encompassing woodland chaparral, grassland, deserts, marshes, and even suburban areas.

These snakes thrive at temperatures ranging from 80 to 84°F and humidity levels of 35 to 60%. The optimum environment varies according to the snake's biological state. For example, during reproduction, they require even more warm temperatures, and while shedding, they want higher humidity.

California King Snake Behavior

California Kingsnakes are usually calm when compared with similar-sized snakes, however they can be nervous. They will normally not become aggressive until provoked.

Hissing, curling into a ball, and rapid tail movement are all signs that the California King is agitated.

Adult California kings grown in captivity are often fairly quiet, although hatchlings can be snappy. If you are dealing with irritable California Kingsnake babies, they should calm down with some careful handling.

The proper approach for handling a California Kingsnake is to grasp it softly and let it wriggle between your fingers. Never let your snake hang unsupported, as this can damage their spines.

California kingsnakes are thought to be less social animals. Although, during mating season or brumation, they will gather together.

In the wintertime months, California Kingsnakes, like other reptiles and amphibians, brumate to conserve energy and maintain body temperatures. During the brumation, California king snakes do not eat or discharge waste, but they will sometimes wake up to drink. In order to control body temperatures, California kingsnakes dig beneath plants or other coverings to cool off and bathe in the sun to elevate their internal body temperatures.

California Kingsnake Health

California king snakes are a resilient species. Apart from the usual snake ailments and health issues, the California King has no unique health needs. Just like any other type of snake, there can be times when problems with health occur.

Common Health Problems in California King Snakes

The following provides a brief overview of California Kingsnake diseases and disorders.

Respiratory Ailments

California Kingsnakes are susceptible to respiratory tract illnesses, such as colds and pneumonia. Most of the time, these "colds" are caused by an unsuitable temperature in the snake's habitat. Consult the veterinarian if your snake raises its head with its mouth open or if it makes a wheezing sound while breathing.

When the problem is detected early, adjusting the temperature range in the cage can successfully treat the cold.

Infectious Diseases and Parasites

Mouth rot, also known as infectious stomatitis, is a cheesy substance that forms around your snake's gums as well as its teeth as a result of debris being lodged in the snake's mouth or striking the surrounding walls. If you see these discharges, see your vet right away.

Several California Kingsnakes are raised in captivity, reducing the likelihood of your new pet possessing internal parasites. A simple feces sample (fresh and wet) can help you find internal parasites, but it's necessary to see your veterinarian to have it evaluated.

External parasites comprise ticks and mites. Heavy mite infections appear as swarming white, red, or black specks on snakes and their surroundings. A mite infestation can be exceedingly harmful and even fatal, but it is treatable with a variety of commercially available products.

If you have a mite issue, you must remove it from both your pet and its surroundings.

California Kingsnake Diet

California Kingsnakes enjoy meat. In their natural environment, they have been observed eating mice, lizards, tiny birds, and even other snakes. Rodents are the greatest food for captive California Kings. California Kings are not picky eaters, and most will spend their entire lives on nothing but mice.

To avoid inadvertent bites while serving your California Kingsnake, think about using tongs. You should select fresh dead or frozen thawed prey from an animal care store or wholesaler. Avoid using wild-caught mice because many of them carry parasites and sicknesses that can contaminate your snake and/or collections.

While preparing a pre-killed creature for your pet, defrost it in warm water or place it in the sun. However, avoid leaving a pre-killed meal sitting for a prolonged period, as hazardous germs can start to develop on it. Baby California Kingsnakes thrive on consuming one pinky (hairless newborn) mouse each week or so.

As your snake grows, you should raise the size of the rodent accordingly. A suitably sized meal consists of something that is a) no more than 1.5 times the breadth of the snake's body and or b) leaves only a little bulge in the snake after consumption; something bigger will be regurgitated.

When the California Kingsnake hits adulthood, feed it 1 - 2 big adult mice each week or two. Make sure to feed the snake's prey one at a time, and do not leave live prey alone in your snake cage for an extended period. If your snake is not starving, it will not eat and will allow the mouse to claw, scratch, and bite it. Snakes can sustain damage and even die as a result of prey bites.

Reproduction

The California kingsnake serves as an oviparous internal fertilization animal. It implies it lays eggs rather than giving live birth like other types of snakes. Courtship for this kingsnake starts in the spring, typically following hibernation or its initial shedding, and includes males fighting for available females. While fighting a male counterpart, the California Kingsnake will grab the rival snake and bite it to show dominance. The mating ritual starts with the male snake shaking excessively. Eggs get laid between 42-63 days following mating; during preparation, the female snake selects a good spot.

The standard clutch size ranges from five to twelve eggs, with an average of 9, while clutches of twenty or more eggs have been reported. The hatchlings normally appear another 40-65 days later, measuring eight to 13 inches in length. Newly hatched kingsnakes remain in their nest for around one week until they shed their first coating of skin and ultimately leave. Adult California kingsnakes typically measure 2.5-3.5 feet in length and seldom surpass four feet.

Selecting A California King Snake

California kingsnakes can be purchased from an online store, from a specialist breeder, or at a local pet store. Before bringing one home, learn about its requirements as well as ask the seller about how the snake you are interested in is fed. Choose one who has constantly eaten thaw mice.

While the kingsnake appears to be in the high-white phase, its 50/50 banded tail pattern, which varies from the striped tail of high whites, reveals its genes. Both parents were desert-banded animals, 70% white and 30% black. This reversed double-dotted design is exceptionally rare.

Ensure that the snake is adequately hydrated. Wrinkled or saggy skin often suggests dehydration. The majority of vendors provide some form of health guarantee, so be sure to question policies if the animal becomes ill or dies within a specific timeframe.

Also, determine if the snake is captive-produced. Since captive-bred California kingsnakes are so plentiful these days, there is no reason to get a wild-caught one, which could contain parasites, suffer other health issues, or refuse to consume thawed rodents. Avoid future issues by purchasing captive-bred animals.

If you are thinking about a California kingsnake as the first snake for your child, monitor the care and handling of the snake.

Handling a California King Snake

Always provide a new captive a few days to settle into its new surroundings before feeding or handling it. Hatchlings are generally frightened as they learn to understand and respond to their new proprietor and surroundings.

This young creamy-white of the high-white phase has a highly sought-after pattern for captive breeders: all white throughout its body length. This species also lacks the distinctive black dorsal stripe in tandem with the length of its tail. Their defensive show is easily identifiable. They frequently rear up to the shape of S, move their tails, and lash out into the open air. If a stray finger comes in their path, they may cause two pinpricks. A bite is slightly more painful compared to a mosquito bite, but the first reflex is to drop the juvenile snake. Avert this to prevent injury to the snake, and instead, continue to hold it carefully. The hatchling must understand that biting you is not an imminent danger and will not make you disappear.

If the snake's escape response lasts too long, return it to its cage to avoid overstressing it.

Other protective techniques used by young California kingsnakes include emitting a musky odor and/or defecating on you. Although not especially pleasant, these are innocuous maneuvers that diminish with regular, gentle treatment.

Whenever you hold the snake, let it move freely between your fingers; also, make sure to support it with both hands. Do not hold or confine your snake. If you do, it may perceive this as a threat and become hostile and anxious. Once feeding starts, refrain from touching your snake for a minimum of two days after it has eaten. Handling too quickly might occasionally result in regurgitation.

How Should Be the Enclosure of California King Snake?

California kingsnakes hatchlings range in length from 8 to 10 inches. A 10-gallon tank with an escape-proof top is adequate for a juvenile snake. Screen toppers that slide and lock into place perform nicely.

Their endless appetite allows them to grow swiftly, and they often reach adulthood in three years. A 4-foot-long adult can fit comfortably in an enclosure measuring 3 feet long, 1 1/2 feet wide, and 1 foot tall. The habitat's length and width are more significant than its height.

While California kingsnakes are not particularly good climbers, don't be shocked if you see your snake trapped along the enclosure's upper lip. Their curiosity motivates them to explore every inch of their surroundings. The slightest lid opening can offer them a chance to perform a Houdini act, so look closely for potential tank escape paths.

Providing the right heat gradients for your California kingsnake is critical to its wellness and overall well-being. The proper temperature gradient is 85 to 90 degrees F at the cage's hot end and 70 to 75 degrees at the cooler end.

A variety of substrates are ideal for a kingsnake cage, such as aspen shavings, Care-fresh bedding, and bark chips. Snake keepers who prefer a minimalist approach can utilize newspaper or paper towels. Avoid using cedar shavings as the oils in these are poisonous to reptiles. It is also critical to maintain a clean and dry substrate at all times. If aspen shavings or comparable particle materials are utilized, do not place food directly on the substrate. A little damp, thawing mouse can become stuck with the substrate, which the snake may mistakenly consume. This may cause obstruction, which can be fatal for the snake.

Always offer clean drinking water. A solid water dish large enough to accommodate the snake's soaking needs is preferable. Check and clean the dish on a regular basis since these snakes often defecate in the water source. This often happens right after you change the water!

To keep humidity low, set the water dish in a neutral position in the tank. A room humidifier can also assist in maintaining adequate air moisture during wintertime in northern latitudes when air humidity is very low. If a full shed cannot be obtained, this may indicate that the humidity is excessively low. Use a plastic container with a lid to boost the local humidity. Find one large enough for the snake to curl up easily. Create a passage hole on top that's big enough for the snake to get in. Fill the vessel with moist sphagnum moss or paper towels. This design enables the animal to receive the moisture it requires to shed appropriately.

Hiding spots, like hide boxes, give your snake a feeling of security while also reducing stress. These boxes must be big enough to hold the snake whenever it is curled up. Enhance the dimension of the hide boxes as the snake develops. Offer a hiding spot at both the hot and cooler ends of the habitat.

Feeding Kingsnakes

Healthy captive-bred newborns typically eat on frozen pinkie mice that have been thawed in warm water or kept at room temperature. Provide food every 5 to 7 days.

Hatchling snakes raised in a huge habitat may become insecure and refuse to feed. They frequently feed more easily when given food in a tiny covered deli cup having air holes and left alone in the dark. The deli cup with the juvenile snake and pinkie mouse can be returned to the tank during this time. After roughly a week, a baby snake should have adapted to its enclosure and become acclimated to a more participatory feeding method.

As the snake grows up, bigger food items such as fuzzy mice, hoppers, weanlings, as well as adult mice can be introduced. When choosing prey, a decent rule of thumb is to provide food no bigger than the snake's widest point. While California kingsnakes can consume prey considerably greater in size than oneself, it is easier on the snake's digestive tract to consume 2 smaller prey items rather than one huge one.

If your snake abruptly ceases to eat thawed mice, it may be reverting to its previous feeding patterns. This may occur to both captive-bred and wild-caught adolescents who were fed live foods as hatchlings for an extended period of time. Breeders often utilize a few tactics to induce a feeding response from reluctant eaters.

Anoles, or small lizards, can be rubbed on frozen or live mice to give fragrance to them. Small fragments of lizard shed skin can also be put on the head of the provided pinkie. Another often-used procedure is "braining," which involves splitting open the skull of a pinkie mouse. This may not sound appealing, yet brained pinkies are highly desirable to juvenile snakes. If a snake continues to avoid food, it could be a sign of a wider problem, and you should visit a certified veterinarian.

Two-headed Snake

A two-headed California kingsnake reared to the age of seventeen at Arizona State University's reptile collection has received attention as a rare case of serpentine polycephaly. It was born wild near the South Mountain Park and Reserve in Arizona before being spotted underneath the toilet seat of a public lavatory in the park's foothills and moved to ASU. This mutation was most likely caused by unsuccessful cell division during the procedure of creating twins.

California Kingsnake History

California kings have a broad native habitat, flourishing in both coastal and desert settings. They are not arboreal snakes (meaning they do not climb trees), yet they enjoy burrowing, basking, and hiding. The rodent burrow is one of their favorite natural habitats to invade and colonize.

Historically, the California Kingsnake was assumed to be a kind of subspecies of the regular Kingsnake, but it was recognized as a distinct species in 2009. There are a few ideas as to how the California Kingsnake received its royal name, but most believe it's because the California King will consume other snakes, including venomous ones.

Population

Population Threats

California Kingsnakes have no severe threats right now.

Population Statistic

As per the IUCN, California kingsnakes are locally prevalent and widespread across their range, but no total population estimate is reported. The IUCN Red List currently classifies this species as Least Concern (LC), and its numbers remain constant.

Ecological Role

California kingsnakes have a significant ecological role in their habitat by controlling the population size of their prey species.

Domestication

The California kingsnake is a famous pet reptile due to its simplicity of upkeep, appealing look, and calm nature. As individual snakes vary in color and pattern, snake fans have purposefully bred for a range of color designs and morphs. Today, the pet trade sells numerous color variations of this snake type.

Fun Facts

Here are some of the amazing facts about California Kingsnake;

The California kingsnake's scientific name translates to "shiny skin" or "shiny shield."
Kingsnake hatchlings can exhibit quite different color patterns than their parents and siblings.
California kingsnakes can crawl over the ground, climb trees, and swim.
California kingsnakes are opportunistic eaters, eating a variety of animals in their local environs.
Although they appear to be extremely dangerous species, they are not poisonous.
A young California kingsnake hatches from an egg and is less than two feet in length at birth. The youngster is known as a hatchling, and it takes approximately 65 days for the eggs to hatch.
Adopting a California kingsnake as a pet costs approximately $80. Albino snakes are typically valued at $100, whereas high white snakes can cost $200. Baby kingsnakes are often more expensive, yet genetics also influence the cost that a breeder assigns.
A full-grown California kingsnake can grow to be around 3.5 feet long, while there have been incidents in Mexico where the snake was nearly twice that size.

FAQs About Striped California Kingsnake

#1. Are California King Snakes Friendly?

California kingsnakes are famous pets with friendly behavior. They are easy to care for, but they are not suitable for everybody.

#2. Do California King Snakes Bite?

The California kingsnake is not particularly deadly as it is without venom; however, if it is shocked, scared, or threatened, it may become aggressive. Fortunately, without the poison, the bite will only hurt a little.

#3. Are California King Snakes Harmless?

Not exactly. Although they do not have venom, they can nonetheless wrap and tighten themselves around prey and kill it.

#4. Why Do California King Snakes Make Excellent Pets?

While they resemble their more lethal counterparts, they are quite harmless and quite pleasant once they become accustomed to their owner/ handler. A mature/adult wild California kingsnake costs around $80 or less, while the price varies depending on several aspects (such as age and genetics). With proper care, the typical lifespan is 20 years or more.

#5. Where Do California King Snakes Reside?

The California Kingsnakes are popularly found in California (As its name suggests). However, they can also be found in Oregon, Arizona, Utah, and Nevada in the United States. They additionally reside in Mexico and are comfortable in a variety of environments, including marshes, forests, grasslands, and deserts. Whether in the wild or captivity, their average lifespan is 20 years or longer.